SDIT- Vietnam 2003: In Honor, Peace and Understanding
| We stopped at the base of Dragon Mountain,
south of Pleiku, in Vietnam's Central Highlands.Three boys walked through
a field of dry grasses as we climbed out of our vans. The occasional moped
driver sped by. A snappy wind blew so fierce the video recorder I was holding
didn't record a word of the history Hai, our local guide, was providing.
Our group of 10 gathered around our guide. I moseyed over to the boys,
my hands outstretched. I offered them balloons. They laughed at my offer.
Teenagers, probably. One boy reached out and accepted it for the others.
A moped driver stopped and stared at our team. A bicyclist did the same. Then another. And another. Soon a crowd of six or seven locals were sitting cross-legged on their mopeds or standing, with arms crossed about their chest, staring and pointing at us. I rejoined my group and continued to video the moment. But I couldn't hear anything except the whipping wind. I snapped a photo of Brother Bill Everett standing with his back to Dragon Mountain. A soldier with three children had crashed and died on this hillside. Bill's father. Dick Schonberger labeled me the "wanderer" of the group. Curiosity kept me on the move. I walked off from the group and joined the locals on the two-lane road. An elderly man, wearing what appeared to be some sort of NVA helmet, pointed at the camera strung about my neck and smiled. One of the translators accompanying us explained. "He wants to have his picture made with you," he said. Sure, I replied. Let's get everyone in it. A dark-skinned fellow sitting cross-legged on the motorcycle pointed at the picture around my neck. I pulled on the laminated photo and pointed to a man kneeling before a gaggle of children. "My Ba," I said. He studied the picture. Then, he looked up and smiled at me. His wide-spaced grin was brilliant against his dark skin. He turned to two others standing beside him and they exchanged words. They leaned their heads in and studied the picture for themselves. I just kept repeating the words that Viet had taught me. "My Ba. My Ba." My team had gathered behind me. I told them that the old man wanted his picture made with us, so we huddled around and I handed my camera to Viet, who snapped the shot. An odd feeling washed over me. It felt like we were the hunter's trophy. Viet asked the old fellow a couple of questions. Where was he from? Did he know any of the children in the photo around my neck? He was from up North. A former NVA, he told Viet, proudly. The children, all Montagnard, were long gone. Run off or killed by NVA when they moved into the region during the war, he explained. There was no sign of regret or sadness in his demeanor. Several others leaned in to take a look at the photo. There was much chatter among them. I'd asked Dick if we could stop at the local village to see if there was an elder who might remember when the troops came through this way. Dick agreed, but he was wary. Probably won't be anyone, he said. The vans turned around and headed back towards Pleiku. Dragon Mountain was on our left now. As we drove, Viet and Hai discussed the photo. Just outside of the local village, where the Montagnards once lived, Hai said he thought this was the place where the photo had been taken. Dick wasn't convinced. It didn't look right to him, he said. The drivers pulled over. Hai, Viet and I jumped out of the vans. The locals on the mopeds had followed us. They stopped too. A mother with two girls was walking alongside the roadway. Viet and Hai approached her with the photo. The huts of the village were only half-a-block away. Locals who had seen us stop, began to walk or run towards us. Viet and Hai exchanged words with the townsfolk. They kept pointing to the picture, to the gully beside the road, and back to the mountain. I asked Viet what they were saying. "They are saying this is it," Viet said, nodding toward the dry gully. "That the picture was made here, in the gully, during the rainy season. Look at the mud. The shape of the mountain." I looked at the mountain. At the picture. Back to the gully. I had not planned to memorialize my father here. The idea was to perform the memorial service as close as possible to the place where our fathers died. But for me, that had been hard to narrow down. Too much time had passed. His commanding officer said he wasn't sure where it was. Some place in the Ia Drang Valley. The records I had obtained were sketchy. I knew a dustoff had been called that morning. And that rains had prevented it from reaching Dad in time. But the daily logs didn't list an exact location. At least not the logs I'd been able to obtain. I'd worn the picture of my father in hopes that I might find one of the children in the photo alive. I knew it was a lofty dream, but our guide Viet told us a story of how veterans he knew had tracked down old girlfriends from 30 years ago.
Dave,
The vets had given the girls nicknames like
Tennessee and Maryland. And they carried pictures of the gals stuffed in
their shirt pockets. Viet said he figured it was long shot that they would
be able to find the women, who were only 15 when the photos were made.
They had sold colas and beers to the GIs who were patrolling the road alongside
Nui Ba Den. Viet humored the vets and took them back to their old stomping
grounds. He was as shocked as anyone when the veterans walked into a local
eatery and, sure enough, spotted Miss Tennessee and Miss Maryland across
the room.
"When Native Americans were nomadic tribes,
they would build rock monuments before moving on to another camp. The monument
provided a way for them to measure their journeys. By looking back, they
could see how far they had traveled and in which direction.
Karen Spears Zacharias, author of Benched (Mercer Univ. Press, 1997) writes from her home along the Umatilla River in Pendleton, Ore. She is currently at work on a book about the aftermath of her father's death. |